adirondack table plans

Adirondack Table Plans

First off, I love the look of Adirondack chairs. They scream “lake house”. I’m talking summertime, barbeque, boating, that one drunk uncle, fishing, the smell of campfires. You know the type. Now I don’t have a lake house, but every lake house I have ever been to has one thing in common. That’s right: Adirondack chairs. I feel like if you just take a regular house and add a couple of Adirondack chairs, you’re pretty much halfway to having a lake house. The only thing you’re missing is… well... the lake...


Anyways, the problem for me is, these chairs are pretty damn expensive. I’m talking like $250 a pop! Also, what if you want a table? Gotta price that bad boy in too. So I’m going to show you one man’s story on how he dodged the cost of authentic Adirondack chairs, but still ended up with a couple of chairs and a table which are about as authentic as they come.

Unfortunately, I started this project without the intent of ever sharing the photos with anyone, so I mostly only have photos of the finished project, but like any project it started with a plan. This plan didn’t come from self reflection, speaking to a higher being, or a spirit vision. No no, this plan came from the internet. So I found a decent plan for an Adirondack chair (you can view it here) and I hit the hardware store.


Now the lumber aisle of the hardware store was sort of foreign place for me. Lots of numbers being thrown around, different types of wood, and strangely shaped shopping carts. Speaking of types of wood, this was where I made my first mistake. I don’t like to use the word “mistake”, I prefer “lesson learned”. So this is actually where I learned my first lesson as a complete project amateur. As I browsed the lumber aisles I quickly noticed that some wood was very white while some of the wood was greenish and wet. So I frantically got out my phone and started searching for the difference online so I didn’t look like a total rookie in front of the staff.


I quickly learned the wet greenish wood was “pressure-treated lumber” which is lumber which is put into a pressurized chemical tank. The chemicals absorb deep into the wood and stop it from rotting. It’s the stuff you’d build a deck out of. Anyways my logic was, my chairs will be outside so they must be treated! Wrong. I ended up throwing some spar urethane on these after staining so it’s double protection and unnecessary. A man once told me “It’s like wearing your belt and suspenders at the same time”. This was an old man in case the suspenders reference wasn’t a dead giveaway.


So I gathered my pressure treated wood and headed to my garage. The tools I ended up using for the construction were a cordless power drill, a 12-inch miter saw, and a jigsaw. The power drill was a gift from my old man as a housewarming gift, and the jigsaw was $5 at a neighborhood garage sale (It’s only a good deal if you brag about it). The miter saw was something I pulled off of a Facebook marketplace post and may have been the best purchase I’ve made to date.


I have a rule when I’m woodworking: Don’t crack open your first beer until you’ve made all your cuts. I have very symmetric hands (it’s one of my top 5 features), and I would hate for a sloppy cut to ruin that. So I patiently measured and cut all of my lumber into the required pieces, then I cracked open a cold one (I’ve been on a hazy IPA kick lately), and began the assembly process.


Here is where I realized the other shortcoming of freshly treated wood. I am a huge fan of using wood glue during the assembly process. Before I put screws into any nice woodworking project, I always glue, clamp, and wait. It really helps avoid having the pieces move around on you as you drill/drive. It also just results in an overall sturdier build. Well with freshly treated wood, the wood is still wet, so the glue doesn’t really ever dry up, so for the first chair assembly, I ended up bailing on the glue all together because it didn’t seem to make a difference. For the second chair, I wised up and let the wood dry out in the sun for a day before gluing. So. Much. Better.

So with my chairs built, I began to yearn for a table. I struggled to find any plans online that I liked, so I ended up drawing the table myself in a CAD software and making my own plans (I know - this guy builds two chairs and he thinks he can already start designing furniture). Well my custom plans actually turned out great, so I wanted to share them with you. First off, you’ll need the following board sizes from your favorite lumber supply (or scrap pile):


  • (2) - 6’ 2x4-inch boards

  • (2) - 8’ 1x4-inch boards

  • The shortest 2x2-inch board you can find as you’ll only need an 8-inch long piece


Once you have all your boards, you’ll need to get them to size, so shown to the right are the necessary dimensions you'll need for your cuts. Once all of your cuts are made you will need the following tools and materials:


  • Circular Saw

  • Drill/Driver

  • Clamps (can never have too many)

  • 1-¼”, 2”, and 2-½” deck screws

  • Wood glue


I just want to state again - I always glue, clamp, and wait at least 15 minutes before drilling and driving. I would highly recommend you do the same for the reasons I discussed earlier. I've compiled the build into 4 steps which are documented in the diagrams below. I've laid out the plans in a specific order to avoid having to drive any screws from the top of the table. Gives it a real clean look which is sure to command plenty of "Ooh's" and "Ahh's" from your buddies.



Now that all the construction is completed, you’ll probably want to throw some stain it. I’ll share how I prettied my table up: First I hit everything with 150 grit sandpaper. I wanted a dark stain, but I didn’t know how dark. I came to my decision by simply browsing the stain selection at the hardware store and choosing based on the color on the can. Don’t do this. I found that the color on the can may vary significantly. I would recommend searching for projects online which use the exact stain you are considering and choose based on the colors presented on actual projects. In my case, I ended up using Minwax’s Semi-Transparent Dark Walnut. Much darker than I originally intended, but I’ll be honest.... I dig it. Since it was so dark I only applied one coat and moved on to the finishing coat.


For the finish, I used spar urethane since it will be an outdoor application (spar urethane is typically recommended for outdoors). I went with only two coats and smoothed with 220 grit sandpaper between coats and after the final coat. Beautiful.


And there you have it. My first set of patio furniture, and more importantly my first project. I had a regular (non-lake) house, and as I laid out earlier: Regular House + Adirondack Chairs = Lake House. So with the addition of these chairs, I am happy to share that I am now the proud owner of one lake house! Also everyone knows how expensive lake houses are, so I can’t wait to see this change reflected in my property value.